Products We Love: Backseat Hammocks

After a recent road trip with Hiko (an Australian Shepherd), I felt compelled to write a post about how much I love backseat hammocks for dogs. Dog-in-car travel gear has been around for a while, but some products are more about protecting your car from your pet than vice versa. Amy and I both love the backseat car hammock because it provides a barrier to keep your dog out of the front seat. It does an excellent job of protecting your seats from hair and mud. Most importantly, it makes it possible for your dog to lay down and relax on your journey.

Why is a hammock better than a cushy seat cover? The hammock style prevents dogs from rolling or stepping into the footwell. Many come with holes to accommodate a dog seatbelt, for added security & safety when you need it. Also, when you leave the car, the footwell space makes a nice place to hide anything you don’t want visible. Or an extra spot to store bags for your longer road trips.

The hammock style also helps with training. If you have a dog that’s nervous about people approaching the car, or riding in the car in general, treats can be a big help. It’s hard to hand treats to your dog when they’re in the back, but with the hammock, you can just chuck them behind you! The hammock will catch them and you don’t have to worry about treats going under your seat. Easy find for your dog!

There are plenty of styles on the market, with a very wide range of prices. Amy and I both chose the Orvis seat hammock. While on the higher end price wise, Orvis dog products are sturdy, well-made, last a long time, and are comfortable for your dog. Hiko has certainly tested the stitching by putting his full body weight into suspended portion during…err…product testing.

So if your dog needs some help in the car, a back seat hammock could be a great solution! Make sure to check measurements to ensure the hammock fits well in your car. Different things to consider: Do you need it be machine washable? Do you want flaps to cover the side of your car seats? Do you need air ventilation in the front? Do you need slots to put attach a dog seat belt?

Training tip: Some dogs instantly get it, others need time to adjust (especially if they’re older and haven’t experienced one before). It took Hiko a bit to figure out where and how he could move. He also can get over the barrier if he’s determined, but a few car rides with treats and encouragement for staying in back helped a lot. You can also put your dogs bed on the hammock and have the dog lay in their bed while riding (extra helpful when you’re going to want that bed where you are going as well).

What the Fluff is up with Group Classes?

Group Classes

Why should I still go if I can train my dog myself, or hire a private trainer?

Every Thursday evening for six years, I (Amy) would go to the armory in Cambridge, Massachusetts to teach dog training classes for the oldest AKC club in America, the New England Dog Training Club (NEDTC). Founded in 1936, the club has gone through a number of changes over the years, always flexing to keep teaching dogs good manners. When I was teaching there from 2012 - 2018, we had a very successful steps program that taught me the best of what group dog training classes would be. Every Thursday night as many as 100 dogs came to class with their person, and both learned how to work better together. We had 630,730, and 830 PM time slots (four different classes going on at each of these hours). Anyone bringing a new puppy or new adult dog for the first time could witness the advanced level dogs working just on the other side of the large gym. The set-up was killer, (and always took at least 8 of us 30 minutes pre- and post-class to roll out carpet and tarps, set up ring gates to create the different classes, get out water bowls, post signs, strategize entering and exiting) but the space and set-up was perfectly conducive to churning out tens of wonderfully trained dogs every few months. 

This step program created a way for a dog/person team to advance at their own pace through a number of skills and set-ups, advancing from Step 1 (beginner) to Step 4 where a dog could sit for the Canine Good Citizen exam (CGC). The CGC is a well-respected AKC test that allows dogs to become therapy dogs, keeps insurance down in certain home-owners associations, and is generally the big gold STAR of the pet dog world. 

I can still remember the disbelief on many a newbie’s faces watching dogs in the far ring do a distance-down-stay off-leash for 3 minutes. I always smiled and said, “if you stick with this, your dog can be doing that in a year or two”. And many dogs/people did stick with it and did get to see just what I was talking about. For me as a trainer, I saw weekly humans realizing the huge potential that lies in their own dog for great body control, cooperative listening, and what those in the Boston area would call “wicked smarts.” 

A huge part of the draw and the success of these classes (we always had a waitlist) was that dogs were learning their skills in a distracting environment and when dogs can work amidst big distractions, they can work anywhere. And while group classes are giving the dog the ability to learn how to concentrate through the distractions, they are offering the people the time and the training to understand their own dog’s unique mix of challenges/skills. Still, group classes are not for those who easily give up. On occasion, I’d see a dog struggling in Step 1 and the person would choose to not come back because it was frustrating to see/experience. But for the most part, some encouragement kept them coming back and we (the staff) got to witness dog/human pairs improving in leaps and bounds.

I’m excited to bring the group training experience to BehaveAtlanta, but it requires a little creativity and teamwork, because we don’t have a dedicated space to hold them (and if we did have a space, Covid-19 would have forced us outside anyways!). So it’s a great time to be offering outdoor classes in varied locations! We were grateful to run a small puppy class this month thanks to an email from an interested person who offered us an outdoor space in her neighborhood, and helped gather other puppy parents by advertising on neighborhood social media like Next Door. We are looking to offer more classes in the late Summer/Fall. Please respond to this by leaving a comment or contact us using our contact form on our website to let us know you’re interested! 

*Group classes are not for every dog and that’s absolutely OK. They are not a good fit for your dog if your dog has stranger danger (is fearful/reactive/aggressive to people) or dog reactivity (is fearful/aggressive/reactive to other dogs). In those cases, we offer private sessions! 

Group classes offer you and your dog these benefits: 

• You see others work and learn from other dog owners;

• You have a weekly deposit in your skills bank and keep moving forward on your goal of being a better dog/person pair;

• You have immediate access to a trainer who’s able to answer questions;

• Classes are more affordable than private training;

• Dogs need to learn how to ignore other dogs;

• Dogs need to learn how to work in a distracted environment;

• There’s a lot to this thing that we call “positive reinforcement dog training” that most don’t ever learn (such as how to fade treats and keep strong commands);

• A trainer is there to assess your dog’s learning style and how to help them learn better;

• You can also improve on your training style by getting tips on how to give commands, marks and rewards;

• The benefits of  spending time with other person and dog teams who are working on similar goals;

• Your dog will enjoy it and it’s a nice weekly thing you can do together.

Products We Love: Muzzles

We We Love These: 

To put it succinctly, muzzles enclose the bitey part of your dog, so they can have more freedom to explore the outside world. If you have a reactive dog and you find yourself holding your breath on walks or when your dog is playing too rough, muzzles are the key to allowing you to relax a little. Unfortunately muzzles are so stigmatized that often people would rather keep their dogs inside and away from any adventures than training a muzzle and trying it out. We understand those feelings, but try to look at it this way:

• If you properly introduce your dog to the muzzle, your dog wont mind wearing it because muzzles mean yummy things like cheese! The muzzle can be their golden ticket out the door. You’re doing it FOR them, not TO them. 

• You’re also doing it for yourself and for others. Not only are you protecting others from danger, but you’re showing that muzzles aren’t such a big deal! Maybe if someone sees your dog in a muzzle, they’ll consider getting one for their own nervous pup. 

• Muzzles are like bike helmets - they aren’t that comfortable to start but they are relatively easy to get used to and when you do, you are safer out in the world and that makes you and your family members feel better.

Also, there’s a silver lining to the stigma. People want to interact with dogs so badly that they often ignore you, even if you’ve told them not to approach or say hello to your dog. But people pay attention to muzzles and generally respect them. If you have a dog that has a big personal bubble or who doesn’t do well with off-leash dogs barreling at them, a muzzle is a clear signal that your dog needs space and that approaching may not go well. Sometimes we recommend muzzles to owners with dogs with no bite history because it seems to be the only thing that works to keep people’s hands away. Interestingly a dog with a muzzle on is the least likely to bite you...but I digress. 

We like the Baskerville muzzle especially, because it’s 

• Breathable (your dog can pant and drink),

• You can deliver treats into it,

• It’s comfortable and lightweight and flexible, so often more comfortable for most dogs than other models.  

Muzzles require a little legwork for desensitization so if you need help with how to train your dog to wear a muzzle, make sure to visit the Muzzle Up Project (they have great videos). Once your dog is comfortably wearing a muzzle, you’ve got an amazing tool that enables you and your dog to have some stress-free fun. 

If you have a dog that is a very high bite risk, you might choose one without any gaps (as fingers and fur can get into the Baskerville). Check out Muzzle Up Project for more info and a whole bunch of different options. We also love BUMAS muzzles if you’re looking for something more festive and custom!

Photocred: We had a hard time finding photos of dogs living their best lives with muzzles on based on the product advertisement photos. So we took to the gram with #muzzles to find more realistic photos of dogs to show how normal and fun they can actually be. Enter Rusty & Rocky @loveofrusty.rocky who let us use their photos to help dispel the stigma against muzzles. Check out their page to see how they use them!

Products We Love: Sleepypods

Why We Love These:

Sleepypods are snazzy, sturdy, stress-reducing pet carriers. They are on the expensive side, but the beauty is worth the investment and here’s why:

1.     Pet carriers must be well made. You do not want a carrier with a flimsy handle, or a zipper that your pet can weasel open (especially if you have an actual weasel). And if you’re taking your cat on a trip, you want it to be a safe little shell for your pet, not just a bag. Crash-tested carriers can give you extra peace of mind & safety.

2.     They should be easy to get your pet into and out of, for your sake and your pet’s. If you have ever wrestled an unhappy cat into a carrier, you understand how deeply disturbing it is for everyone involved. Nobody wins. Top-loading carriers tend to make the process much quicker and gentler.

3.     Don’t get an ugly carrier. Why not? Because you shouldn’t feel compelled to keep it hidden in the basement all the time. If you only take the carrier out when your pet needs to go to the vet, it basically becomes a portal to hell. Fear of the carrier itself means your pet is stressed before they even leave your house, and likely so are you. As a person who has fostered many cats who needed to go in and out carriers on a weekly basis, I learned this lesson quickly: carrier stays out, door stays open, treats magically appear in carrier at random times. If the carrier is okay-looking, you’re more likely to be willing to have it out somewhere. If the carrier is beautiful, you will be happy to prominently display it.

4. Sleepypods take this a step further by having the carrier work as a bed when the top isn’t on. So it’s a carrier AND a bed. 2 for one bogo deal situation! I cannot emphasize enough how important it is for animals to be comfortable in a carrier. Many cat owners avoid taking their cats to the vet at all because it’s so difficult to get them into the carrier. Serious issues can then go undiagnosed for a long time.

So while the Sleepypod is a high end pet carrier, look at it as an investment in your animal’s health and your own wellbeing. And if Sleepypod isn’t your style, make an effort to find a carrier that you do like. Just look for something that is a.) sturdy & safe b.) easy to get your pet in and out of and c.) something you’d be okay with leaving out from time to time. You and your cat will appreciate it!

Products We Love: Long Lines

Why We Love These:

It’s summer and even though summer in 2020 is not what we’re used to, we hope you’re getting outdoors for some fresh air. One of our favorite summer activities is taking our dogs on off-leash hikes. Having a dog that can be trusted to stay with you, respond to your cues, and watch for you to stop/change direction while off-leash is what most dog owners dream of. A long line is a must-have tool for getting you there. A long line creates an invisible boundary for your dog, sort of like training wheels for your pup while you work on distance recall (coming when called).

Get a 15, 20 or 30 foot leash and take it to a field with treats, a harness, your dog (and a clicker if you are using one). Let your dog wander about and then call them over - never letting them get more than the length of the line away from you. Every time they come back to you, reward them with treats and praise! This teaches your dog that they have 15/20/25 feet to move away from you but no further. You should also reward them when they come back on their own to reinforce their awareness of how far is too far from you, and a habit of “checking in.”

Another great use for a long line is to allow your dog some freedom if they want to join you for outside time in an unfenced yard. My backyard is fenced but my front yard is not, so when I want to lounge on the porch, a long line allows him to join me or lay in the grass (all about the sunbathing!). We just loop a long line around the porch railing and voila, he can roam the yard but not go into the street.  I had a foster dog in the spring that really benefited from the long line as well. At first, she was straining at the line and wishing she could go further. But the more time she spent out on the line, the more she lounged and settled into the room she had. It even helped to curb her door dashing because she understood that there was a boundary in the front yard, preventing her from running off. 

Important: We are suggesting long lines as a safety net when you are out together, not as a way to keep your dog out all day while you do other things. Never tether your dog outside unsupervised, in fact it’s illegal in many states. Long lines are meant to add to the things you can do safely with your dog, not without them.

We don’t have a specific brand of long line that we like in particular, and they come in a variety of price ranges and styles depending on what you’re looking for. For example, a  simple nylon leash can go as low as $9 from Hi Kiss and will work great for most people. Some people prefer biothane over nylon because long lines do drag on the ground, and biothane is easily rinsed. Darker colored leashes are subtler, but if you’re planning on bringing the leash somewhere public like a park, a brightly colored leash is easy to see and can prevent people from tripping (you can see the difference in the leashes in the above photo from LeashBoss). And after color, there are different handle types. Sturdy handles are more comfortable but can be cumbersome, and if you plan on letting it drag during training a lighter loop might be more your style.

So, have at it! The world is your leash oyster.

Products We Love: Cat Shelves

Why We Love These:

Cat trees are to cats as dog beds are to dogs. They’re basically part of the “I’m getting a cat” starter kit. Cat trees provide an appropriate place for cats to lounge and scratch - something cats do instinctually to deposit their scent, work their muscles, and stretch (here's an entire website dedicated to cat claws). However, people are often unaware of one of the most important provisions of cat trees - an elevated perch. Cats LOVE vertical space - that’s why they’re always creeping on you from stair landings, bookshelves, and whatever other surface they inexplicably scaled.

The drawbacks of cat trees are that they can be cumbersome, and if you’re particular about your home design, you might not like the way a cat tree looks in your living room. Many people opt out of cat trees for that reason, and that’s not really fair. That’s like someone saying “I don’t like the way couches look, so if you could just sit on the floor that’d be great.” But fear not, there is an alternative: CAT SHELVES. That’s right, cat lovers (who, despite the “cat lady” stereotype, are often also design lovers) have created shelving explicitly for cats. There are quite a few brands and styles to choose from depending on your taste (CatastophicCreations is a frontrunner, but retailers from Chewy to Etsy carry a variety of options as well). And if you’re looking to be inspired by #catownergoals check out my article for the IAABC about a home kitted out (see what I did there?) with cat friendly amenities.

We recommend adding perches for cats in almost all of our consults. Not only does it enrich their lives in general, but it gives them more spaces that are “theirs.” This is especially useful in multi-cat homes, and homes with dogs. Getting on and off of cat shelves also supports fitness and can help provide more incentive for your cat to get moving. We love hiding treats and toys on shelves for cats to find later.

The real genius of cat shelving is that it doesn’t take up floor space so you can put them anywhere. We recommend placing them in rooms you’re cat already spends time, and in positions from which they can survey their environment. And if you’re not ready to commit to a cat tree or shelf, we hope you can clear off some space for you cat on your bookshelf (and in your heart). 

Products We Love: Puzzle Toys

Why We Love This:

You know those times when your dog stares at you until you realize there’s a ball under the couch? And you know how when you’re not there they are magically capable of getting it themselves? Dogs have evolved to be able to use us as a tool to solve their problems which is incredible and really makes you feel like a team player. But we also don’t want to be that parent that always does our kid’s homework. Animals need to think and solve puzzles, not just because it's a mental exercise, but because it builds confidence. There’s rarely a consultation these days in which we don’t recommend some kind of puzzle toy for feeding. Using a puzzle toy for meal time can mean several good things for your pet: 

1. They stretch mealtimes from one minute to at least ten. Your dog/cat/bird/gerbil is occupied by something engaging and fun that you don’t need to be a part of (you can work, clean up the kitchen, shower, etc and know your pet is properly entertained by a puzzle toy). Slowing down eating can also help your pet feel full faster, and be less likely to run into digestive issues from eating too quickly. 

2. Puzzle toys are also great workouts- mentally and sometimes physically! Exercising your pet while you just Netflix & Chill is already the dream, but if you have a pet displaying problematic behaviors - puzzle toys are even more valuable. They can drain energy that might otherwise be put towards destruction or anxiety spirals. 

3. Lastly, they allow your pet to engage in species-specific behaviors. There’s a reason people buy pistachios with the shells on even though you can buy them naked. Getting the shells off is fun, and they taste better because you worked for it. Animals evolved to find and then capture, tear, chew, and/or manipulate their food in some way. So not only can it be boring for them to eat out of a bowl, but what do they do with all those unused skills? Unleash them in your home that’s what. I’m looking at you cats-who-stalk-ankles-and-knock-stuff-off-counters. Puzzle toys may look like unnecessary extras for the pet-owner who really wants their pet to be their child, but they're the opposite. They are for the pet owner that wants their dog to be a dog, and cat to be a cat. 

And let’s say you’ve tried them but your pet seems disinterested or unsure at first, - help them out by showing them how it works and then sit back. If your pet isn’t trying, switch to a smaller piece of food or some treats that are higher value so they will work harder to get them out. We often discourage our pets from this type of problem solving because we either intervene to help, or we take the item away because it’s something we don’t want them to have. Once they are successful, they will often continue. If your pet tends to be less independent, you may need to start them and then sit with them but not interact and slowly move away. This is a great way to teach your pet to be more independent and do something on their own.

Rory has spent countless hours eating his food out of these treat dispensers and there is no doubt in my mind that he wouldn’t trade in a single one!

Here are a few of our favorites:

Snuffle Mat

Starmark Treat Dispensing Chewball

Westpaw Zogoflex Tough Chew toy

Quinker Dog Ball 

Kong Stuff-A Ball

Doc & Phoebe Cat Mouse Feeder

Cat Kong Treat Dispenser

Products We Love: The Kong

Why we love this:

If you own a dog, you’ve probably owned a Kong or at least seen one. But have you truly appreciated the Kong? You might not realize all the ways the Kong is there to make your and your pet’s life better.  And, while there are many puzzle toys that we love (more on that later), the Kong is the OG. Like that little giraffe toy that everyone needs for their baby but cooler cuz you can put snacks in it. So what is a Kong? It’s an indestructible, stuffable, throwable puzzle toy.

Let’s talk indestructibility: When I adopted Rory at 18 months, his dad gave me a few things to take with me, and one of these was his puppy Kong. Though Rory had chewed up the man’s sofa, rugs, and every other toy given to him, Rory had not been able to destroy his Kong. And before you assume that Rory just wasn’t a strong chewer, you should know that he literally chomped through his leash once when I tethered him to my railing in hopes of kissing a boy without Rory trying to pull me away (the history of Rory’s feelings about Amy’s men will have to wait until another blog post). Indestructibility is not only important for the longevity of the toy, but because it means little pieces won’t be chipping off for your dog to ingest. So, once your pup knows how to use the Kong, they can safely have it unsupervised!

Kongs major purpose as a toy is to be stuffed with …stuff. Although most people stuff their Kongs with a treat or two, very few grasp the Kong’s full stuffable potential. Kongs can be stuffed with little treats, big treats, smeary treats, frozen treats, red fish blue fish one fish two fish. You get it. It’s not just for variety- the type of treat you use can determine the difficulty of the puzzle and allow you to use Kongs for different purposes. You can plop one little treat in there for an easy puzzle, stuff their whole dinner in mixed with something sticky for long mealtime activity, or you can smear it with something lickable like peanut butter or easy cheese, bringing us to our favorite quality of the Kong…

We  recommend the Kong toy most often in working with two types of dogs - a dog who needs to work on crate training (puppy or new adult dog who will start in a crate before being allowed free roam) and dogs who are working to defeat (bang, bang, pow) separation anxiety. The Kong toy is designed for licking and it’s this licking behavior that can be calming to dogs, and allow them to focus on something (yummy). This is so important we’ll say it again: Licking is a self soothing behavior - the Kong elicits a behavior that helps your dog calm themself down. *Fireworks* There are so many times that people hire us to train cool activities like off-leash hiking, city-walking, or fetch. But one of the really great things that we like to do is train dogs to be calm and to be able to lower their energy levels to rest. We all need downtime to be healthy. A constantly overstimulated dog, like a constantly overstimulated person, will struggle to be emotionally healthy and practice good behaviors. So next time you’re working on a “go to mat” cue, crate training, or practicing separations from your dog, remember the Kong. It’s one of our favorites.

Puppy Socialization & COVID

COVID-19 is making everything complicated, and puppy socialization is no different! Puppies that are socialized during their critical period (between 8-12 weeks-ish) are less likely to develop behavioral problems involving fear or aggression than those who aren't. So what's the problem? Their vaccines aren't completed by that time, so taking them out in the world can be scary. You want them to to see the world, but not get diseases from the world. And that was when we were just worried about our dogs getting viruses, let alone ourselves! So why not wait until dogs are fully vaccinated and coronavirus is under control? Because the risks of behavioral problems from under-socialization outweigh the risks of disease if you socialize carefully. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has a statement explaining this clearly if you’d like to read more (we link to it on our resources page)!

Back in the day (AKA a few months ago), you could carefully socialize your pup by ⁠avoiding places frequented by unknown (potentially unvaccinated or sick) dogs, while exposing your pup to healthy dogs and environments. This could be done by taking them to puppy classes that specialize in socialization, and setting up playdates with healthy/vaccinated/puppy-friendly dogs at your home or a friend’s home. So what do you do when you can't go to puppy class or friend's houses? We came up with some ideas for socializing your pup in the time of COVID-19.

But first, we must issue a disclaimer: Always discuss these choices with vet and use your best judgement. Do what you are comfortable with both for your puppy and for yourself. Follow CDC & WHO protocols when going out in public, and WASH YOUR HANDS.

Okay so ideas:

1. First things first, expose your dog (in your home) to humans in face masks and/or gloves, and any other protective gear you may wear. People are going to be wearing all sorts of weird things on their heads for the coming months (plus hats and scarves in winter), and it’ll be really hard if your dog is afraid of/barks at all of them. So before you even go out the door, make sure you give them lots of treats and gentle exposure to you and/or other family members in a variety of corona inspired fashion choices!

2. If you aren’t sick or showing symptoms, take your dog out in your neighborhood or another safe environment and reward them in the presence of different sites and sounds (remember, avoid places that are popular with unknown dogs because some diseases can be transferred via surfaces like grass). If you don’t want to leave your driveway, you can sit out there and reward your pup for staying calm as people of all shapes and sizes pass by on bikes, skateboards, in trucks, etc. Roll the garbage can down the driveway, enlist your children to walk down the street in disguise. Get creative!

⁠ 3. If you feel comfortable, arrange a socially distance appropriate outdoor play date with a friend who has a fully vaccinated and puppy-friendly dog, or a puppy of the same age & vaccination level. Humans can be 6-feet apart, and dogs can interact. Try your best only to interact with your own dog and⁠ wash your hands before and after! If you’re very concerned, you could even give your pup a little bath when they get home. (Baths should be a positive experience as well, so load up on treats and go slow!).

We wish we had recommendations for socialization that involved zero risk of disease contraction for humans or dogs, but unfortunately we haven’t found any yet. However, we also know that the risks of behavioral issues associated with avoiding socialization entirely during a puppy’s critical period can be very serious. So PLEASE try to find a way to socialize your pet in a way that feels comfortable for you! We are here for suggestions if you need us. Minimize risk as much as possible by following CDC and WHO guidelines, avoiding high traffic dog and human areas, and using your best judgement.

Products We Love: The Freedom Harness

Why we love this:

Walking well on leash is one of the toughest things for a dog to learn, but it’s one of the most crucial skills for your dog to have! It opens the door to lots of good times for you and your dog, going to new places and having adventures. While some dog owners walk their dogs despite bad leash manners, many find it to be too much of a hassle and leave their dog stuck at home!  Walking a dog who pulls is at best annoying and worst dangerous. So why don’t people do more leash training if it’s so important? Because leash training can be a lot of work! Thankfully, with advances in dog walking gear there are now tools that can make training go much faster. 

Enter: The Freedom Harness, our favorite “no pull” harness. What this means is that the dog is automatically turned and stopped when they pull forward. The freedom harness has a clip on the front to use during “no pull” training as well as a clip on the back for anything else, like running, biking, or slower dogs that do not pull. For extra control, you can even use the company’s two-clip leash. It allows you to clip one end to the chest and one to the back creating a braking system which can be especially helpful for the strong pullers. Have a houdini? This freedom harness is very secure, we haven’t seen a dog wiggle out of one yet. Another feature we love is the velvet straps under the armpits to avoid armpit chafing! Most dogs find this comfortable to wear. And most importantly, it’s stylish. There are so many color options - you can go classic chic black, discreet natural to match your dog’s coat, or loud and proud with teals, oranges, pinks to name a few. 

If you’re looking to start leash training, we also recommend a treat pouch so your hands can be free to hold the leash and you have treats handy to reward good walking. We offer leash training for all ages (virtually and in person) where we can help you learn basics or how to deal with a dog who pulls like they’re racing the iditarod! If you’re interested, sign up for a “Be Good” dog training session and let us know you want to work on leash training. We’ve got your back and want to save your dog’s neck. Ok got all the puns out of my system. 

Products We Like: Petsafe Treat Pouch

Why we love this:

There are a lot of items that are helpful when you’re actively training a dog and a treat pouch is right up near the top of our list. Early into Amy’s dog walking days, she’d put treats in the pockets of her coats for training. When she got home, she’d take off that coat and hang it in the front hallway or throw it into the laundry. It didn’t take her catahoula, Rory, long to sniff them out in the pocket and eat them. When he encountered a closed zipper, he’d just chew through the back of the pocket and suck out the treat crumbs. It was at that time that Amy decided to always use a treat pouch (and she’s never gone back). 

There are many pouch options, but we like the PetSafe pouch the best. First of all, it comes with a belt - you can wear it anytime with any pair of pants/shorts (even a dress if you fancy) so there is no need for pockets. And when you get home or finish training, the pouch can be used as a container for treats and is easily stored in a closet or high cabinet away from your pet’s reach.

This pouch has three pockets - the first one is great for a cell phone and poop bags, and there are two inner pockets for treats. It’s roomy enough to hold a ziplock bag of hot dogs or deli meat, some dry kibble or jerky treats and even a stick of string cheese - one of our favorite high value treats b/c it comes ready to travel (and as Lillian likes to say, it doubles as a person treat if you get hungry). Our favorite feature is the hinged opening so you can keep it open or snap it closed. This makes it easy to get treat after treat and then close again (all one-handed) so you won’t spill treats everywhere when you lean over to pick up dog poo (trust me on this). It’s also totally machine-washable, so every few months you can pop it into your washing machine to get out all the treat crumbs and start fresh!

If you’re ready to take your training on the road, sign up for our sessions with us today! We pride ourselves in getting behavior changes that will benefit you and your pet in a number of different settings and we LOVE adventures so we want you and your dog ready to go, enjoy, and be safe!

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Are you wondering why we named our business Behave Atlanta?

Have you ever been walking your dog and encountered another dog pulling fiercely towards your dog, hackles up? You expect a warning or apology and instead you hear a straining voice say, “he’s friendly” from the other end of the leash. Have you ever been at a friend’s house and the friend told you that it’s fine to pick up her terrified looking cat, saying something like, “Oh she loves it once she’s in your arms”? Have you ever seen your own dog who you know to be a gentle, sweet spirit raise up and bark aggressively at a dog on the other side of a fence? 

In the first two examples, there is a natural impulse to judge the pet owner’s claims as inaccurate, but what about the third? When it comes to your own cat or dog, do you shake their behavior off as a fluke and find yourself making a similar assertion? For whatever reason, this is a common experience in our culture. We believe that our own dogs/cats (even kids) are allowed to have slip-ups without it affecting their inner worth, but when it comes to others, we are not so generous.

In truth, each of the above circumstances reflects what is often described as “bad” behavior, and bad behavior is perpetrated by “bad” animals (and people) right? For us as trainers and behaviorists, the answer is an unwavering, unquestioning, absolute NO.  The word “bad” is well… a bad way to describe behavior.

Why? First of all, it’s vague and it’s subjective. Behavior itself can’t be bad or good. Behavior just is. There is an appropriate time and place for most behaviors. We start using descriptors like “bad” when behaviors are happening in an inappropriate context, and even that isn’t always clear! Barking is good if you want a guard dog, but not if you don’t. And it depends on how much barking, at whom, etc. Domestic animals have an especially tough time because by bringing them into our homes, we make it even harder for them to find appropriate outlets for their natural behaviors. Digging, chewing, barking, and scratching were once essential survival skills!

It’s important to help our pets find places and times to do the things they are so good at, not judge them for doing it. The same lack of judgment should be applied to your own behavior. Most pet owners are afraid to tell us the strategies they’ve used to train their pets so far. While many of the old-school methods can be more harmful than helpful, we don’t blame you or judge you for them. Just like your pet, you were trying to accomplish something, and you did what you thought worked.

So why did we name ourselves Behave Atlanta? Because that’s what we do, it’s what your pet does, it’s what you’re doing. We observe it, dissect it, and sometimes try to change it, redirect it, or channel it. We rely on behaviorism, the science of studying observable actions. So when we see a dog pulling on leash towards another dog, a cat slinking decisively towards a stranger, or a dog barking at a fence, we see behavioral sequences which begin our work. It’s these observable actions that we look at and begin to unwind. 

While we can’t speak for all animal behaviorists and trainers, we at Behave Atlanta believe in the inner goodness and worth of each individual we work with, regardless of species. Each dog or cat or person who decides to work on their behavior at Behave Atlanta is viewed and valued as a good being from the beginning.  Then we work towards more appropriate behaviors that work better for everyone, in turn creating better relationships, happier animals, and more harmonious homes.

Training Myth #13: You can’t train a dog that doesn’t like treats

While most dogs will gladly accept treats and other food rewards as “payment” during training, there are some exceptions that are simply disinterested in food. But, that doesn’t mean they can’t be trained! If a dog isn’t eager to work for treats, simply find another source of motivation. A reward for a job well done can be a favorite squeaky toy, a game of frisbee, a quick fetch of a tennis ball, a belly scratch, or simply praise from you. Just find what motivates your dog, what he reacts best to, and use that as your reward during training.

Training Myth #12: My Dog Is a Dumb Breed so He Can’t Learn

There has been a lot of research lately on dog intelligence and not one of them has proven that a dog’s particular breed determines a level of intelligence. Therefore, all dogs are intelligent and they can all learn. It’s just a matter of figuring out how to develop a relationship and the right environment for your dog to be successful.

Training Myth #11: Crate training a dog is cruel

Many pet parents, either through imagining the sad faces of shelter dogs spending their days and nights behind bars, or because of thinking of a crate in terms of punishment or restriction, are under the impression that crate training a dog is cruel and unnecessary. This couldn’t be farther from the truth! When used properly, a crate becomes a safe haven for your dog. It becomes a place they enjoy spending time in, where they’re able to relax and feel comfortable and at ease. Many dogs look forward to spending time in their crates and will retreat to them, on their own, when they’re looking for peace and quiet.

Training Myth #10: Playing Tug Will Make My Dog Aggressive

People used to say that you shouldn’t play tug with your dog because it would encourage biting and pulling on things – such as a human hand. However, if played correctly with the right set of rules (including not ever coming in contact with human skin and a reliable drop), there is nothing wrong with a good game of tug! It can be quite rewarding for many dogs and be a useful training tool.

Training Myth #9: He’ll Grow out of It

No, no he won’t. In fact, if you let your dog do something you don’t like, thinking she will grow out of it, it’s more likely the behavior will get stronger. The shelters are full of dogs that were relinquished due to behavior issues. So don’t wait for something that is never going to happen – training is the only answer to bad behavior.

Training Myth #8: If I Use Food to Train, I Will Always Have to Use Food

Using food as a reward is just the start because most dogs will work for a treat. However, many of us also use toys, freedom, praise, petting, play, etc., as rewards are our dog’s progress in their training. You will not have carry treats with you 24/7 to get your dog to mind – if that were true no positive reinforcement trainer would be able to compete in dog events, where food is not allowed. And many compete, successfully at that.

Training Myth #7: Dogs need to be punished when they misbehave

Despite our feelings about them, dogs simply aren’t human. They don’t understand the difference between a suitable chew toy and the corner of your leather sofa – until they’ve been taught. Many pet owners make the mistake of punishing a dog, either by yelling, using an aversive training tool like a choke chain, or even by hitting when their dog has done something undesirable, but fail to teach the dog a more appropriate behavior instead. Over time, this type of training might save the corner of your sofa, but the result is often a dog that’s confused, insecure, and fearful rather than one that’s confident and understands what’s expected of him. Instead of punishing bad behavior, teach your dog that behaving appropriately is more rewarding for her. Reward the good behavior and ignore the bad.

Training Myth #6: My Dog Is Dominant and That’s Why He Does “X”

Another one of myths surrounding dog training involves believing your dog is doing something like pulling on the leash, jumping up, not listening, etc., because your dog is dominant. However, “dominance” is not a personality trait. Your dog is not planning to take over the world by first getting control of you. According to the research, there is actually no such thing as a “dominant dog,” because dominance is a social relationship between animals of the same species and it’s constantly changing.